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Champagne Mailly

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Interview with Paul Gerber, Winemaker Colmant

champagne-mailly

From math teacher to winemaker – that’s quite a jump! How did you come to join Colmant?

There is so much science and mathematics in wine production that it’s not as big a leap as you would imagine. Although my wife did take some convincing when I told her I wanted to quit my job and go back to varsity. I studied Viticulture and Oenology at Stellies and then honed my skill in Italy, Germany and, of course, Champagne. When I returned, I met JP and now I get to live in beautiful Franschhoek and make bubbly.

I can certainly understand the lifestyle attraction, but what was behind the decision to become agents for Champagne?

Initially JP and I imported Champagne for our own consumption, but over time, friends and family requested Champagne as well as Colmant MCC. It kind of grew from there. We first imported Tribaut because of an old friendship, then we added Mailly and Le Mesnil. We have close bonds as family and friends, but most importantly we align in terms of style.

Which brings us to Mailly Champagne – what makes it special in your view?

grand-cru

There are a number of factors. Mailly is an exceptional terroir. It’s 100% Grand Cru and the lieux-dits (vineyard parcels) are handled by individual producers. There is no mixing of the wine until the blending, which allows for unique and complex flavours to be developed. Just a different slope can influence the grape and one vineyard faces all points of the compass, hence different rainfall and sunshine from one parcel to another. Later ripening and different soils all influence the overall product.

Mailly is the oldest cooperative of 70 producers from the Mailly village based in the Eastern end of the Montagne de Reims. The cellar was established in 1929… that was the start of the Great Depression. This was not a good time to be in the wine business and prices were being squeezed. Yet, Mailly became a sought-after Champagne because of its excellence. It’s a true story of the little guys succeeding despite all odds.

There are a number of factors. Mailly is an exceptional terroir. It’s 100% Grand Cru and the lieux-dits (vineyard parcels) are handled by individual producers. There is no mixing of the wine until the blending, which allows for unique and complex flavours to be developed. Just a different slope can influence the grape and one vineyard faces all points of the compass, hence different rainfall and sunshine from one parcel to another. Later ripening and different soils all influence the overall product.

Mailly is the oldest cooperative of 70 producers from the Mailly village based in the Eastern end of the Montagne de Reims. The cellar was established in 1929… that was the start of the Great Depression. This was not a good time to be in the wine business and prices were being squeezed. Yet, Mailly became a sought-after Champagne because of its excellence. It’s a true story of the little guys succeeding despite all odds.

So, each producer produces their own reserve wines?

Yes, reserve wine accounts for 20-30%, sometimes more. There are significant reserves in the cellars and tanks and reserves from different sites are carefully labelled and kept separate. There is respect for the individual sites coming together and an acknowledgement that the composite parts are unique in what they offer.

How would you describe Mailly Champagne?

Elegant, graceful, lots of intensity, layers and complexity. There are a variety of options from aperitifs to the perfect dinner accompaniment. These are not wishy washy wines! The wine is left on the cork for a long time after degorge, anything from 6-12 months, which gives a creaminess to the bubbles.

Pinot Noir is the core grape and gives a perception of strawberry flavour. My son and I often eat strawberries, ripe and warm from the garden so the association with happy times is strong for me.

In fact, Mailly as a brand encourages the sensory journey, combining the appreciation of art, wine and music. This is why they introduced the Les Artistiques cuvées which marry art and Champagne.

What is your favourite Mailly Champagne?

Les Échansons is a vintage cuvée that is the greatest example of the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir combinations so typical of Mailly. It’s rich and vinous but with the important edge of minerality… it’s exceptional.

les-echansons

About Jean-Phillipe Colmant and Paul Gerber

Jean-Philippe Colmant

Born in 1965 in the French speaking part of Belgium, Jean-Philippe (JP) Colmant grew up in a strong culture of wine and Champagne as most Belgians do. At the age of 36, he decided to emigrate with his family and landed in Franschhoek in December 2002. Here Jean-Philippe set up the first winery in South Africa solely dedicated to the production of Cap Classique, and shortly after he started the import of some very fine Champagne Houses. So, in 2005 Colmant Cap Classique and Champagne was born.

Paul Gerber

Began his career as a Mathematics teacher but made a dramatic turn when during a wine course he discovered that wine, mathematics and chemistry overlap. Shortly after getting married, he convinced his wife that he should quit his job and returned to study Viticulture and Oenology (full time) at Stellenbosch University. Thereafter he set off on a quest to better understand the alchemy of bubbles and completed harvests in Franciacorta (Italy), Rhinelandphalfz (Germany) and Le Mesnil sur Oger (Champagne, France).

During his time in Le Mesnil sur Oger their winemakers provided Paul with the perfect opportunity to hone his skill and passion for Champagne and Cap Classique. He makes regular visits back to this Grand Cru village to better understand the finer arts of blending and the producing of exceptional terroir driven wines from some of the region’s finest oenologues and vignerons.

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The Champagne in Africa team support enjoying life and the responsible consumption of alcoholic beverages. Alcoholic beverages are not for persons under the age of 18. Please remember to drink responsibly.